Wednesday, 16 May 2018

A Greek corner in Borough Market


As far as the culinary world goes, in London, you can almost visit any country without leaving the city. Last Saturday I went to Greece in the heart of Borough Market. I was invited by the people behind Oliveology to attend a workshop run by the Greek chef Despina Siahuli. Oliveology started trading in a small stall in Borough Market, in 2010. Nowadays, they have their own shop, which is located at the Three Crown Square section of the market.

They were the first to bring organic, unpasteurised Kalamata olives to the UK. Some of these have a unique flavour. This is due to the fact that the olives don’t go through a mechanical and chemical method. They are cured with fresh water and left to naturally ferment. It is a very slow process and undeniably labour intensive. It takes about 6-9 months to reach the end of the process. When ready, they are preserved in organic extra-virgin olive oil, organic vinegar and mixed wild herbs. I had never tried some of them before and it was a revelation.

At the workshop, I learnt how to use some of the traditional ingredients, supplied by independent artisan farmers from different parts of Greece.

Despina showed us how to use bulgur wheat as a filling for aubergine, onions and peppers. The mixture was cooked in tomato sauce, with loads of fresh herbs, smoked paprika and dried oregano. Once the bulgur was cooked, we filled the vegetables with it, and oven roasted it for…

The second dish we prepared was a dip made from slow cooked white beans, with garlic and potato. We blended them all together, adding some fresh herbs. It was served with the delicious wild capers and Kalamata olives from the shop.

The salad was one of the star dishes. It was made with incredible barley rusks called Dakos, plus unpasteurised feta cheese and hazelnuts. To finish, a drizzle of a flavoursome dressing made from grape molasses.

To accompany the meal, I had – what else? – some Greek wine: the 2016 Markou Vineyard Schinopeuko Retsina. It was a good surprise to me because the first time I drank retsina wine I really disliked it. Marianna Kolokotroni, the shop owner, explained that some lower quality retsina have a bad reputation - not only for their taste but also because they can give you an unpleasant headache. The wine we had at Oliveology was of another level. The Markou had the flavours of pine resin that developed into a mixture of refreshing citrus and herbal  aftertaste.

For a nice, sweet finish, Despina melted some dark chocolate which we used to coat some almonds and hazelnuts. There were also prunes soaked in Mastika drink, stuffed with nuts and covered in chocolate. 


Sourdough toast with soft Greek goat's cheese and wild thyme honey.
Bulgur wheat being cooked with loads of fresh herbs...
...to be used as a filling in some vegetables.
Refreshing Mastika drink.
Nuts and prunes covered with dark chocolate and sprinkled with bee pollen.

I was really impressed with the quality of Oliveology’s ingredients and the passion of everyone involved in the business. I came home inspired to explore other flavours from Greece. I will now be visiting the shop more often. The extra virging olive oil selection is now a must. But, first, I’ll share with you one of the healthy and mouth-watering recipes I learned in the Greek corner of Borough Market.
Yamas!  


Some of the fabulous ingredients I brought home.

Blend all the ingredients together.

My Greek white bean dip!

White beans dip with fresh herbs and wild capers (by Despina Siahuli’s)

Serves 8-10


Ingredients

200g dried white beans (i.e. cannellini)
1 bay leaf
2 medium garlic cloves
100g potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped (optional)
1 Tablespoon fresh basil, chopped
1 Tablespoon fresh dill, chopped
1 Tablespoon flat parsley, chopped
3 Tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO)
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
Wild capers and olives for garnish

Method

Soak the beans overnight in cold water. In the morning, drain the beans, place them in a large pot and cover with fresh water. Bring to the boil and let it boil for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse.

Place the beans back in the pot, cover them with fresh water (make sure that there is plenty of water covering the beans). Bring them to a gentle boil, add the bay leaf, the garlic cloves and the potatoes, if you are using them.

Cook the beans until tender – it will take 1-2 hours, depending on the beans. Once they are cooked, drain and reserve the cooking liquid. Remove the bay leaf. Leave the beans to cool.

Put the beans and the garlic (and the potatoes) with 20ml of the cooking liquid into a blender, or food processor. Add the fresh herbs, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Add more liquid if needed.

Taste and adjust seasoning. Garnish with EVOO, fresh chopped herbs, capers and olives.

A healthy note: Cannellini beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) are one of the best sources of fibre. Research has shown that the high content of fibre can help lower cholesterol and prevent the quick rise of blood sugar levels after a meal. It makes them especially good for people diagnosed with diabetes, hypoglycaemia or who are insulin resistant. Cannellini beans are rich in Leucine, an aminoacid that is beneficial in exercise recovery.

Till next week!

Thursday, 10 May 2018

Papaya sauce for an English barbecue


Last weekend, when I couldn’t find chicken on the supermarket shelves, I realized it was going to be barbecue-time all over London. The friends who invited us for a barbie in their garden made as a centrepiece some gorgeous king prawns.   

One of the things I made to take with us was a sauce to go with the prawns or meat. The theme of the dish was Caribbean. Papaya and lime brought to the English garden a flavour of the tropics.  At 28 degrees Celsius, the setting was perfect.



The ingredients.
My papaya and lime sauce.

This is a very simple and quick recipe but it will give your barbecue an oomph. If you decide to make prawns at home for a dinner party, this sauce will bring a special something to the table. You just need the following:

Ingredients

1 ripe papaya, skin and seeds removed
1/2-1 birds eye chilli, seedless (you can also use half of a Scotch Bonnet if you want it extra hot)

1 shallot
Juice of 1 lime
½ teaspoon cider vinegar or white wine vinegar
1 garlic clove
2cm ginger
Allspice powder, add to your taste (optional)
A pinch of sugar or 1 teaspoon of maple syrup
Salt to taste.

Method

Blend all the ingredients together. Place the sauce in a small pan, bring to a boil and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Leave to cool. It’s now ready to be tasted.
 
A healthy note: Papaya (Carica papaya) is an excellent source of vitamin C, carotenes, folic acid, vitamins A and E, potassium and dietary fibre. But it is papain, an enzyme that helps break down or digest protein, that makes this delicious fruit so special. In many countries, papaya is used as an ingredient to tenderise meat. It is also used to treat indigestion, hay fever and other causes of allergies. The black seeds are edible and some people eat it to alleviate constipation.

Till next week!

Wednesday, 2 May 2018

Keeping the tradition – cake for an afternoon tea


Afternoon tea has been a ritual in my family for as long as I can remember. When I was growing up, going to my grandmother’s home for tea was a must. But I wasn’t under any obligation, I really loved it.

My paternal grandmother was from a Lebanese background. The Lebanese take food and family gatherings very seriously. Food is often an excuse for them. Every day we had some sort of homemade cake, biscuit, bread, pudding, plus some seasonal fruits. Actually, I was very lucky with both sides of the family. My maternal grandmother not only cooked Brazilian food superbly well but also Italian - because of my grandfather’s roots.

Forward to this day, my family spontaneously created a habit of afternoon tea. My husband and I often work from home and we have the luxury of having a tea break. Instead of buying cakes, or going for the “healthy” option of raw energy bars, I prefer to make them myself. This way I can control the amount of sugar and the quality of ingredients that go into them. I also want my daughter to have the pleasure of coming home from school and finding the smell of freshly homemade cake, muffins (savoury/sweet), or biscuits in the house.

I am not one for the calorie counting culture. A so called “healthy” raw energy bar might contain more sugar than a piece of cake (see below on A healthy note).

We are not only getting the pleasure of carrying on the tradition of an afternoon tea as a family but we are also gaining some nutritional benefits from my homemade baking.


The ingredients.

Mixed and ready to be baked.

The lemon syrup.

My lemon polenta cake.

Lemon polenta cake
serves 16
 

Ingredients

For the cake

200g organic soft unsalted butter (plus some for greasing)
160g caster sugar
200g organic ground almonds
100g organic fine polenta (or cornmeal)
1½ teaspoons baking powder
4 small organic eggs (or 3 large)
zest of 2 lemons 


For the syrup

juice of 2 lemons (the ones you used above)
50 grams caster sugar or honey


Method

 
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a 23cm loose-bottomed cake tin with butter, sides and all, and line it with a baking parchment.

Beat the butter and sugar together until light and pale.

Beat in the eggs, one by one.

In another bowl mix together the almonds, polenta, baking powder, lemon zest. Add this mixture to the butter/sugar/egg mixture.

Pour the mixture into the tin and bake for 40 minutes.

Make the syrup by boiling together the lemon juice and sugar in a small saucepan.
Simmer over a medium heat for about 10-15 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Remove the cake tin from the oven. Prick the top of the cake all over with a skewer, then pour or brush the warm syrup over it. Leave it to cool.

Delicious served with a dollop of yoghurt and chopped pistachios.

A healthy note: A serving of my polenta cake can provide around 13g of sugar (
it’s not ideal if you are trying to have a very low sugar intake, but it’s ok for those who don’t have restrictions and who are on a healthy balanced diet), as opposed to some raw energy bars that provide approximately 19g per serving. Remember that the recommended maximum refined sugar intake for an adult is 30g a day; and for a child between 19g-24g (see NHS for the government guidelines ).


Till next week!

Wednesday, 18 April 2018

Is bread fruit?



Despite my inclination for locally sourced ingredients, sometimes I do miss some things that never grow here. But, as part of my quest for food diversity, once in a while I like to explore things that I never tried before or haven’t tried for a long time. It’s important to keep the gut happy.

London is amazing for that. It has loads of ethnic markets and shops that ship seasonal produce to this country from all over the world. Last weekend, I went for a day out at Brixton Market. It was buzzing with people as always. The stalls were vibrant with fruits, herbs and vegetables.

Breadfruit (which originated in the South Pacific and spread to the rest of Oceania, South East Asia, Africa, Caribbean islands, Central America and South America), has crossed the ocean to Great Britain this month. When I saw it on the stalls it transported me straight back to my childhood. Mum used to take me to my dance classes and, on the way, we would walk past a breadfruit tree with lots of the fruits crashed on the ground. She always felt sorry to see them go to waste. But, she had a friend who used to grow them in her garden and always dropped a fruit or two for us. One of her favourite recipes was breadfruit flan. That dessert lives in my memory.

Breadfruit is an extremely versatile fruit. You can boil, fry, mash, roast, pickle, ferment, use it in bread doughs, made into a flour, puddings, savoury dishes etc. It is used as staple food in the Polynesian islands as it has great nutritional value (see A healthy note below). The mature fruit can weigh up to 3 kg. It can also feed a small family. In the north of Brazil breadfruit is consumed warm at breakfast, boiled or steamed, with butter. It is a great substitute fo any type of carbohydrate, like bread or cereals, potatoes or rice. It makes an ideal gluten-free dish.

The taste of breadfruit is very similar to cassava root, also a very popular staple food in the north of Brazil and is not as ‘smelly’ as its cousin jackfruit.

Whereas in the tropical countries the fruit is seen everywhere, understandably, here in the UK it doesn’t come that cheap. One kilo (or half of a fruit) can cost £5. 

With the excitement of finding breadfruit in London, I brought some home with me. I roasted it and invited my sister and my brother-in -law to come over to nibble the snack over a very cold glass of beer. Like being in the tropics.



Boil the fruit.
Allow them to cool.
Brush the slices with the oil of your preference, season...
...and bake until they are golden and crispy.
My roasted slices of breadfruit.
Roasted slices of breadfruit

Ingredients

Half breadfruit
Olive oil or coconut oil
Sea salt and Black pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius.

Remove the skin and the core of the breadfruit. Cut the white flesh in slices, as you would do with chunky chips. Boil, or steam them, in salted water until they are easy to prick with a knife. Not too soft.

Allow them to cool.

Line a baking tray with parchment paper, coat the slices of breadfruit with the olive oil or coconut oil, season and place the slices carefully on the tray. Avoid crowding them.

Place the tray in the oven and bake for approximately 30 minutes, or until they reach a lovely golden colour. Turn them over half way through.

Serve.

A healthy noteBreadfruit (Artocarpus altilis) is high in carbohydrates and in dietary fibre, which helps to regulate your digestive system; lower high cholesterol and blood pressure. It contains high amounts of vitamin C, magnesium, calcium and potassium. It is also a great source of the B vitamins, especially niacin (B3), thiamine (B1) and pyridoxine (B6). Breadfruit contains both the essential fats Omega 3 and Omega 6 - they are good for your heart and skin health. The fruit contains some carotenoids, like lutein, which helps to prevent macular degeneration.

Till next week!

Thursday, 12 April 2018

Wild for Garlic - revisited


What I love about seasonal food is the excitement of having in your kitchen that particular ingredient you missed in the rest of the year. 

Back in my farmer’s market this weekend I found wild garlic again in the stalls. Some people are able to forage for it. The plant is very easy to identify and can grow sparingly on the riverbanks and in the woods of England. If you are thinking of foraging, make sure you do your research: wild garlic leaves look similar to Lilly of the Valley, that is a poisonous plant.

A few years ago I posted three recipes here using wild garlic. This time I decided to make something new and easy. Great for a last-minute snack for visitors. As I also said previously in my post, wild garlic can be eaten raw or cooked. All parts of the plant are edible. They are milder than garlic cloves. You can add them to soups, make risotto, eat them raw, sautée them or make an aromatic pesto. Be creative. But go easy with the amount you eat, as it can create a little bit of havoc with your digestion.

The puff pastry I used and the wild garlic pesto.
Mix the pesto with and spread it on the pastry...
...if you prefer not to have ricotta spread the pesto directly on the pastry.
My wild garlic pesto with ricotta rolls
Wild garlic and ricotta roll

Depending on the size of the puff pastry you buy you may not need to use the whole amount of the filling. Too much filling can make the roll too rich and wet. You can also use the recipe below to mix into warm pasta, like a pesto sauce.

Ingredients

1 puff pastry sheet, thawed (I use organic Dorset Pastry)

For the filling

100g wild garlic pesto (see recipe here)
50g organic ricotta
1 egg, beaten 

Parmesan cheese, grated (optional)

Method

Pre-heat the oven at 200°C.

Mix the ricotta and wild garlic pesto, season to taste.
Lightly flour the work surface and roll out the puff pastry dough and spread the ricotta mix on the dough. Roll up the puff pastry and close the edge. Rest the dough in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
Slice the roll in approx. 2.5cm pieces. If you want you can sprinkle some parmesan cheese on top.
Place them on a baking sheet, brush the sides and top with the beaten egg, and bake in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn the heat down to 150C and bake for 5 more minutes - or until they are golden, dry and crispy.

Let them cool off a bit and enjoy!

A healthy note: Wild Garlic (Allium ursinum): also known as Ramsons or Bear’s garlic. Wild garlic has similar healing properties to the cultivated garlic. It is very good for your digestive system, immune system and the cardiovascular system. It helps to control blood pressure and blood cholesterol levels (it helps to reduce blood stickyness). Wild garlic has antibacterial, antifungal and antioxidant properties. It also prevents colds and flus. Wild garlic is known to ease stomach pain and acts as a digestive tonic.

Till next week!

Thursday, 5 April 2018

A lovely wobbly dessert


With spring officially here, I couldn’t help but bring some edible flowers into my kitchen (thanks London Foodie). I have been using them in every single way. I mean, in savoury and sweet dishes. This week, I made an elderflower jelly to salute the colourful season of the year. Apart from the fact that the jelly looked stunning, the family approved the taste too. The flowers I used were pansies which added a bit of texture and fresh flavour.

The edible flowers are delicate and quickly perishable. I had a big stash and decided to store the ones I didn’t use by freezing them in ice cubes to jazz up my summer drinks.

My sister gave me a beautiful vintage jelly mould which I was looking forward to using. The first time I used it, it was a bit of a challenge to turn it out but on the second attempt it worked out beautifully. The trick is this: the water you dip the mould in shouldn’t be too hot.

I plan to make a lot more jellies this summer using a variety of fruits and edible flowers.

Please do make sure that the edible flowers you are buying are certified organic - unless you are growing them in your own garden, free from pesticides.



Before...
...and after! My elderflower jelly.
Elderberry jelly

Ingredients


180ml elderflower cordial (I used a homemade one. Otherwise, I recommend Belvoir)
1 Tablespoon organic unflavoured gelatin powder
Blueberries, as many as you like

Edible flowers, as many as you like
310ml filtered water

Method


Place the cordial in a small saucepan and heat gently to just below boiling point. Remove from the heat. Add 150ml of cold water to the pan, followed by the gelatin, and stir well until it is dissolved. Add the rest of the water.

In a jelly mould carefully place the berries, some flowers, and pour over them just a little bit of the jelly mixture. Place the mould in the fridge for half an hour to one hour. This will stop the berries and flowers floating to the top.

Repeat the method 2-3 more times. Cool it in the fridge until fully set.

Turn it out and serve.

A healthy note: Elderflower has been shown to soothe irritated sinuses and mucus membranes. Gelatin helps the lining of the intestine and the digestion of dairy products. Gelatin is recommended for people who suffer from Crohn’s disease, diverticulitis, leaky gut, colitis and other digestive problems.

Till next week!

Thursday, 29 March 2018

An Asian salad with clementine and physalis


Hello everyone! As I mentioned in my last post, I spent the past two weeks busy in the kitchen - but not mine. I was helping my friend Luiz Hara, aka The London Foodie, with the photoshoot for his next book, The Japanese Larder. I had great fun and also learnt loads about Japanese food beyond sushi and sashimi. Luiz has developed really delicious and easy-to-make recipes.

One of those recipes, he kindly allowed me to share with you today, a sneaky preview, pre-book launching. Luiz is an expert in combining the flavours of East and West, as he has already shown in his previous book and regularly showcases in his supperclubs.

This salad is very simple to make and it is an explosion of flavours. It adds freshness and balance to any meal, especially when it accompanies meat. See below.


The ingredients...
...chopped and ready to be mixed.
My Asian salad with clementine and physalis.

Clementine, Coriander and Toasted Coconut Salad (The Japanese Larder - by Luiz Hara)  
Serves 2

In Luiz’s book this recipe accompanies the Roast Duck in Clementine Teriyaki Glaze. I have tweaked the recipe slightly, replacing two of the ingredients for the salad dressing just because I didn’t have the right ingredients at home. I need to upgrade my Japanese larder

For the salad 


2x clementines, peeled and segmented
4x physalis, washed and cut into quarters
2 Tablespoon coriander, chopped
¼ red onion, peeled and finely sliced
½ red chilli, finely diced
2 Tablespoon desiccated coconut
1 Tablespoon peanuts, toasted
micro coriander and edible flowers to decorate (optional)

For the salad dressing

1 Tablespoon light soy sauce (I used Tamari sauce)
1 Tablespoon lime juice
1 Tablespoon caster sugar (I used coconut sugar)
a generous pinch of dried red chilli flakes

Method

To make the salad dressing, add all ingredients in a bowl and mix well until the sugar is completely dissolved. Reserve.

Prepare the salad by peeling and segmenting the clementines. Remove as much of the white pith as possible. In a pan, dry-fry the desiccated coconut for a couple of minutes until lightly golden. In the same pan, dry-fry the peanuts for a few minutes until toasted, remove from the heat and roughly chop. Wash and cut each physalis into quarters.

Add the clementines, physalis, sliced red onion, chopped coriander, diced chilli, most of the desiccated coconut and toasted peanuts. Mix well.

To serve, mix the salad dressing into the clementine salad, transfer to the serving plates sprinkling the remaining toasted coconut and peanuts over it.

A healthy note: clementines (citrus x clementina) are rich in a variety of nutrients such as vitamin C and folate; minerals such as calcium, magnesium and potassium (good for the health of the heart); and a source of dietary fibre, which helps digestion, preventing constipation. Clementines contain limonoids and quercetin, phytochemicals which research has shown to be good at preventing cancer.

Till next week!